Makeup artist Risako Matsushita delivers a few iconic beauty tutorials worthy of the holiday chill…
Ah, sooty black eye makeup — that no-brainer, no-rules beauty staple which somehow makes even the shakiest hand seem capable thanks to its countless applications of cool. “You don’t want to look like you tried hard — black liner is perfect in that sense!” enthuses bubbly makeup artist Risako Matsushita of the industry-beloved look. “Simple yet very pretty and glam, it gives you an effortless sexiness.” I first met Risako on a trip to Montreal where she was enrolled in the Makeup Artist Accelerator Program for Mastered and was blown away by the otherworldly beauty looks she offered up as I flipped through her work, as well as her put-her-in-your-pocket adorable demeanor. I thought of her immediately when, dreaming of throwing on a fall sweater and looking like a film star, it became clear that the easiest Halloween ever could be at our fingertips with just a few swipes of inky eye makeup and a chilled-out attitude about what “costume” really means.
All it takes is a bit of pro guidance and a handful of Eyeko paints—the Brit-brand (which Alexa Chung once called “the best in the business”) that earned a culty following for vitamin-rich formulas, waste-free packaging, and black-as-night results — to master an iconic beauty ensemble. “Brigitte Bardot is my favorite icon who made black eye makeup her signature — love her look,” Risako enthuses of the French bombshell, her adoration made clear by a personal affinity for winged liner. And with endless starry adaptations — an I’m-with-the-band smokey gaze channeling Kate Moss, a smudged-out indie fashion wing a la Alexa Chung, or a coquettish Bardot-inspired feline-flick — relaxing into a night spent strolling the streets as a clever take on a timeless, cool-girl beauty sounds like an actual treat.
Below, Risako recreates, with spooky accuracy, makeup moments made famous by the industry icons worth roleplaying for a Tuesday night (Halloween or not) out on the town.
FOR THE QUEEN OF THE NIGHT: The Kate Moss-Infused Smoke Show
1. Take Me & My Shadow Liner in Charcoal, and starting at the outer corner of the eye, draw a line close to the lash line moving towards the inner corner, stopping at the center of the iris.
2. Take a fluffy brush (like Alima Pure’s Mini Blending Brush) and blend the color up and out, creating the cat eye effect with the shadow, doing the same for the lower eye to form a “V” shape on the outer corner.
3. Use Sport Waterproof Eyeliner and fill in the top waterline, doing the same for the bottom for intense look.
4. Take Eye Do Liquid Eyeliner and line the inner corner of the eye for a sharper effect.
5. Apply Black Magic Mascara to top and bottom lashes. After it’s dry, layer a second coat just on the 1/3 of outer top and bottom lashes to enhance the eye shape!
ICONIC LINER TIP:
FOR THE UNDERGROUND FASHION FANATIC: Alexa Chung-Worthy Wing Tips
1. Take the brush or your finger and blend Me & My Shadow Liner in Quartz across the entire top eyelid, up to the crease. Then, take Me & My Shadow Liner in Charcoal and line the bottom eyelid, starting from the outer corner and carrying it ONLY up to 1/3 of the way toward the inner corner. Smudge out the edges with the blending brush.
2. Take Eye Do Liquid Eyeliner, and starting with inner corner of the eye, draw a thin line hugging the lash line, stopping at the center of the iris.
3. Draw a wing on the outer corner of the upper eyelid, following the line of the bottom lashes as if to extend its length upwards. Connect it to the upper liner (from step 2) with a diagonal line meeting in the center of your iris.
4. Apply Black Magic Mascara to the top and bottom lashes.
ICONIC LINER TIP:
For an even more doe-eyed effect, grab Blend Me & My Shadow Liner in Quartz and apply around the tear duct as a highlight!
FOR THE FRANCOPHILE: The Brigitte Bardot-esque French Flick
1. Apply Me & My Shadow Liner in Quartz along the top and bottom lashline. Use a blending brush or your finger and blend it up to the crease. For the bottom eye, use the brush on the end of the liner and smudge.
2. Take the Fat Liquid EyeLiner and start your thin line from the inner corner tight along the lash line, and once you’re 3/4 of the way to the outer corner (where the eye starts to dip), drag the line outward and slightly upward to create a wing. Then, go back and fill in with another pass of liner so the wing is even, smooth, and opaque.
3. Use Sport Waterproof Eyeliner to line the top and bottom waterline.
ICONIC LINER TIP:
Aside from being surprisingly fast and easy to apply winged looks, I LOVE how Fat Liner is super smudge-proof, but still comes off easily using just water.
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